In order to know you are getting
the best deal on your interest rate and costs, you need to understand
how interest rates & costs work. Many lenders will intentionally
try to confuse you on this subject. Some loan officers don’t
really understand how interest rates and costs work, so they can’t
explain it to you well. Either way, you don’t have the right
company to get the best rate and lowest costs for your situation.
We will be covering interest rates, points, closing
costs, pre-paids, locking and more, in detail. While a web site
can provide you lots of information about how things work, you
still need the help of an experienced loan officer to truly understand
the entire process with all it’s nuances and get the best
loan for you.
When you use an experienced
loan officer from Pacific Residential Mortgage, LLC, you’ll
know you are getting the loan you want, at the rate & costs
you expect, saving money & time over going direct to banks
or credit unions yourself. Read the rest of this web page to understand
why.
This chart is to show you two things. One, the average
rates over the last 20+ years so you can see some trends and how
rates have moved during different historical economic periods.
Two, so you can see the Federal Reserve and it’s Federal
Funds rate all over the news constantly, has little impact on
mortgage rates.
Mortgage rates move up and down with long term inflation
fears on a global scale. If fears of future inflation are going
up, mortgage rates will increase. If fears of future inflation
are under control and inflation may even be decreasing, mortgage
rates will drop accordingly. On a global scale inflation has gotten
better over the last 20 years and long term interest rates, such
as 30 year fixed rate mortgages, have dropped overall as you can
see. If you look at the years of the bumps in the mortgage rates
on the above chart, you can tie that period to a time when the
economy had higher inflation fears.
When the Fed raises or lowers the Federal Funds
rate, they are usually trying to control the U.S. economy by watching
inflation indicators. If you were to look at the above data on
a detailed scale, you’d see that normally the Fed lags the
long term rate markets with a rate direction, the opposite of
controlling it.
Your best choice on deciding when to get a mortgage
based on rate, is to get a mortgage when you need to. Then get
the best rate you can. Trying to time the market on rate predictions
in the future is just guessing.
Do you ever wonder why so many different interest rates are available
on a simple 30 year fixed rate loan but when you call the company
with lowest rate, the closing costs seem to be really high? And
secondly, when you get about the same closing costs quotes, the
interest rates all seem to be about the same as well? It is because
Interest Rates & Points are connected. In order to fully understand
Interest Rates, you need to fully understand Points.
Points are Loan Fees (Part of your Closing Costs). Points of all
types (Loan Origination, Discount Fee, & Mortgage Broker Fee)
and Yield Spread Premium (YSP) are based on a percentage of the
loan amount. If you pay 1 point on a $300,000 loan, you will have
a $3,000 fee of some type. In simple terms, the more Points you
pay, the lower your interest rate will be. Conversely, the higher
your interest rate, the lower your points will be.
Loan Origination Fee (or Mortgage Broker Fee) and Yield Spread
Premium, go to your mortgage broker or bank as their fee. There
is no free lunch, and you are paying their fee somehow. If they
tell you it is free, you are probably being lied to and should go
elsewhere for your loan.
Retail Banks also get additional fees or revenue from charging
higher interest rates above PAR like mortgage brokers, but call
it different names such as “Service Release Premium”
or say things like “we just keep the loan”, and do not
have to disclose this additional fee or revenue to borrowers like
mortgage brokers do. Common sense tells you they make more money
charging higher interest rates to borrowers just like mortgage brokers
do.
You can pay for a mortgage broker’s or mortgage banker’s
fee in three basic ways:
- All as Loan Origination Fee (or Mortgage Broker Fee)
- All as Yield Spread Premium
- A combination of Loan Origination Fee (or Mortgage Broker Fee)
& Yield Spread Premium
“All as Loan Origination Fee (or Mortgage Broker Fee)”
usually gets you the lowest interest rate or PAR rate. “All
as Yield Spread Premium” usually gets you the highest interest
rate as the lender your mortgage broker or bank is using, is paying
your fee for you from getting a higher interest rate loan. “A
combination of Loan Origination Fee (or Mortgage Broker Fee) &
Yield Spread Premium” usually gets you the best value on your
loan, or in other words a good combination of interest rate and
fee. Much of this choice will be determined on factors such as how
long you plan on keeping your home loan for cost recovery of any
fees paid up front with lower payments based on lower rates, and
your comfort level with the interest rate you choose. This decision
is part science, part experience and part emotion. An experienced
loan officer at Pacific Residential Mortgage, LLC can help you.
Here are some actual wholesale rate sheets from April
9th, 2007 that your mortgage broker or bank may
use. These rates sheets tell your mortgage broker or bank what they
pay for the money they offer you. They show interest rates and fee
combinations available that day, for different lock periods, and
the “adds” for different loans (the lender names are
removed by broker/lender agreements, but you’d probably recognize
the names). These are all standard conforming agency 30 year fixed
rates. Once you understand how your loan officer determines your
rate & costs, you will understand more why a fast rate quote
of “the best rate” is not feasible and ethical experienced
loan officers explain this. You’ll also understand how we
shop loans for you and save you money over going directly to lenders
yourself. We show you multiple lender’s rate sheets when you
come in. You can see for yourself which is the loan to take. Knowledge
with our help will save you money & time.
- Rate
- These rates are available to be locked that day on 30 year
fixed
- 10, 15, 30, 45, etc. days
- This is about locking the rate. The columns show the fee
cost for each interest rate for that many days. You’ll
notice each lender has different number of “Lock”
days. Basically the longer the lock (more days), the cost
of the loan goes up (Fee higher or YSP less, both are higher
cost).
- How to determine Fee for rate
- Go across the Rate to the Days column, Fee is listed in
Points.
- Some are simple
- Positive numbers being a cost for that rate
- Negative or bracketed numbers being a YSP
- Others use “100.000” as PAR
- Numbers below 100.000, the cost is to get back to 100.00
(99.866 is a .134 cost)
- Numbers above 100.000, are YSP (100.333 is a .333 YSP)
- Adjustments to Fee
- Different Types of loan structures, have different costs.
You can pay extra fee for these types (few do this), or you
can raise the rate to absorb the extra costs by using YSP
to off set the fee. This is how most lenders quote rates.
Higher rates for higher risk loans as determined by guidelines.
You’ll notice most are identical as FNMA & FHLMC
usually set these fees, not the individual lenders.
- Investment Properties cost more than Owner Occupied
- Cash-Out refinances cost more than Purchases
- Manufactured Housing costs more than Stick built.
- 2-4 plexs cost more than SFR

Example using “Lender C” Rate Sheet, 30
Yr Fixed, 30 day Lock, no adjusters:
Assume a $300,000 loan with your mortgage lender or broker netting
a total fee of 1.5%


Closing Costs can be very
confusing. Sometimes loan officers intentionally make it more confusing
or don’t know themselves how to explain them. Either way this
is a problem for you. Many customers call and ask what the costs
are when shopping for a loan and don’t realize the different
mortgage terminology used. What really goes into “Costs”?
Closing Costs are NOT everything you pay at close
besides the downpayment (if any). Many shopping consumers think
they are. There are “Closing Costs”, “Pre-Paids”,
“Total Settlement Charges” & “Funds To Close”
that all involve “Costs” from a customer’s point
of view. The “Funds to Close” which should be the total
dollar amount you need at signing, includes “Closing Costs”,
“Pre-Paids” and “Downpayment” (if any).
To make it worse, there is another term “Total Settlement
Charges” which only includes “Closing Costs” &
“Pre-Paids”, not downpayment. Again, education and information
with the advice & help of an experienced
loan officer at Pacific Residential Mortgage, LLC is critical to
make a good decision.
“Closing Costs” on the GFE include:
- Items Payable in Connection with the Loan (Lender fees and
appraisal)
- Title Charges (Escrow & Title Fees)
- Government Recording & Transfer Charges (self explanatory)
- Additional Settlement Charges (Extra things)
“Pre-Paids” on the GFE include:
- Items Required by the Lender to be Paid in Advance (Daily interest,
Home insurance, Property tax pro-rates if no escrow/impounds reserves
are collected {PI payment only}, MI, etc.)
- Reserves Deposited with Lender (Escrow/impound set up costs
for home insurance and property taxes when the house payment will
include taxes & insurance {PITI})
You can shop around for the best “Closing Costs” but
not “Pre-Paids”. Pre-Paids will be determined by the
house you buy and your closing date, not the lender. You can see
why once you understand what goes into Pre-Paids. Also, you will
see that many of the fees are charged by outside third parties that
your loan officer does not control how much the fee is. Your loan
officer is supposed to estimate these outside third parties fees
in “good faith”. If your loan officer under quotes the
fee to these third parties to make their GFE look cheaper than the
competition, you still have to pay the real fee at close which makes
for a surprise at close with higher costs than you anticipated and
told in writing on the GFE at application. Typical Bait & Switch
practice. Some Bait & Switch loan officers just re-disclose
the GFE to you a few days prior to close with much higher fees,
to meet state compliance requirements. Sometimes it is just incompetence
because the loan officer doesn’t know all the fees (happens
with out of state or internet lenders all the time).
You can also learn more about all Costs by reading the HUD booklet
“Buying Your Home, Settlement Costs and Helpful Information”
available at any lender and online at HUD. Every lender is required
to give you this booklet at application.

Locking the interest rate is important to understand.
Knowing when you should lock in the interest rate can either save
you, or cost you, a lot of money over the life of the loan. Most
mortgage loans require a known closing date and an accepted offer
on a purchase to be able to lock the rate. There are some “Lock
& Shop” rates out there where you “lock” the
interest rate, then buy a house, but they are at higher rates and
have other problems. The loan officer you chose helps advise you
on this. Again, choose your loan officer wisely. Make sure of the
"Lock In" time in days, and the associated costs in points
(origination, broker or YSP, as described above in Interest Rates)
of the interest rate you locking.
There is more information about locking on our Rate
Lock Agreement.

Annual Percentage Rate (APR) is a Truth-In-Lending-Act (TILA) requirement,
Regulation Z. This is regulated by the Federal Reserve Board of
the government. It represents the total cost of borrowing as an
annual basis over the term of the loan. In layman terms, the difference
between the interest rate and the APR on a fixed rate loan, represents
the other costs spread over the term of the loan on an annual basis.
As an example, if your interest rate is 5.875% and the APR is 6.096%,
the difference is 0.221% which represents the costs as a percentage
rate, over the time period of the loan. Mortgage insurance is also
part of the APR calculation. ARM loans get complicated with APR.
You need to understand how ARM loans work to understand the APR.
An experienced loan officer can explain
ARM APR to you in person but it would be difficult here on a web
page.
The APR was designed by the government in 1972 and amended many
times since, to be a shopping tool for the consumer. However due
to the complexities of how it is calculated, many loan officers
do not figure it correctly or figure it incorrectly on purpose to
be lower than the next lender. Also not all of the costs of borrowing
are included in APR by law. Some things like what day of the month
you close on or how much you put down, effect APR. If you close
near the end of the month, or put 15% down instead of 5% down, your
APR calculation with be lower. Your costs and principle & interest
payments aren’t lower but the APR is ??? You can see why it
is not a good shopping tool. The Federal Reserve Board, Congress,
HUD, NAMB, MBA and others are making recommendations to change how
APR, GFE and other disclosures are done to make better tools for
the consumer.

Everyone wants to get the best interest rate & lowest costs
on their mortgage loan. Everyone. What most don't realize is they
should be shopping for the best "value" overall in rates
and costs. Just "lowest rate" or "no points"
is not the answer to saving the most money. Even worse, many choose
the “lowest payment” not understanding what kind of
ARM loan they put themselves into and lose their home when the payment
increases. Also, the lowest rate or costs many times means you've
been lied to with a Bait & Switch offer.
Any offer that sounds too good to be true, probably is. Mortgages
are a very competitive business and unscrupulous loan officers don’t
mind lying, even putting it “in writing on a GFE”, to
get your business. When the Costs are $2000 more or the Rate is
.25% higher than you were quoted originally, and now you’re
at escrow signing your final loan papers two days before close,
it is too late. You’re stuck in order to close on time. You
did not choose the person and company to help you wisely. Remember
you are looking for a loan on probably your most important asset,
your home. Take the time to do it right.
Read two newspaper articles from The Hillsboro Argus on "Tips
to avoid Mortgage Fraud" and The Oregonian on "What
should I know about ethics in mortgage lending?" (or in PDF)
both by Steve Emory. Shop smart.
Getting multiple lenders to fax you Good Faith Estimates (GFE)
so you can compare who is cheapest, is a waste of time. Education
and information as I outline above is the best defense to get the
best loan. Going with the cheapest Bait & Switch GFE quote won’t
get you the best loan, just the best initial quote. There is a large
difference. Plus no one can truly provide you with a real GFE, until
they have your loan application, credit report, what type of loan
you want, what cost structure works best for your situation, most
times an AUS approval and more. Also, most of the fees on a GFE
are for outside third parties that your loan officer is estimating
for you. If the loan officer under quotes these fees or leaves one
or more off completely, intentionally or not, you still pay the
real fee at close.
If you do get a faxed GFE from a lender:
- You should also get a Truth-In-Lending (TIL) and Privacy Disclosure
along with it or that lender has violated three Federal laws:
Reg. Z, FTC rules on advertising Closed End Credit, and the GLB
Safeguards Act. These two forms have important additional information
about the sample loan and are Federal requirements for consumer
protection.
- If the lender did send the TIL & Privacy Disclosure with
the GFE, you had provided the lender with some basic information
on your credit, income and the general loan you want, the lender
has additional Federal requirements. The lender must finish the
formal application package with you or send a “Statement
of Credit Denial, Termination or Change” if you have not
gone forward with them by the 3rd business day or they are violating
the Fair Credit Reporting Act and other laws depending on if they
ran credit or not.
- If the lender ran your credit report they are required by the
Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act of 2003 to provide you
a copy of your credit scores on the Notice to Home Loan Applicant
credit score disclosure.
Do you really want to trust a lender to deliver on their GFE quote
and process your home loan that doesn’t follow basic Federal
compliance issues? Be careful. Short-cuts in one area usually lead
to short-cuts in other areas.
Three quotes from mortgage regulators about the pitfalls of shopping
for home loans with GFEs:
Prepared Testimony of the Honorable Mel Martinez Secretary, Department
of Housing and Urban Development, 10:00 a.m., Friday, September
24, 2004 - Dirksen 538
. . . "After agreeing to the price of a house, too many
families sit down at the settlement table and discover unexpected
fees that can add hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars to the
cost of their loan. As a result, many homebuyers find the settlement
process to be filled with mystery and frustration. " . . .
.
H. James Krueger of the Oregon Dept. of Consumer and Business
Services, wrote in the Homes & Real Estate section of the January
24th, 1999 The Oregonian,
"The most common problem reported to us is when consumers
learn at closing that the terms and conditions of the loan are different
from what they were told at the time of application and up to the
day of closing. . . .Making major changes to the terms and conditions
at closing is frequently referred to as a ‘bait-and-switch’
tactic. . . Consumers should also ask their friends and associates
for referrals and do business with a lender who have a proven record
of good and fair service . . . "
In testimony before Congress in July ‘98, Governor Edward
M. Gramlich of the Federal Reserve Board said of the Good Faith
Estimate (GFE),
"The agencies (Federal Reserve & HUD) are concerned,
for example, that some costs in the good faith estimate are significantly
lower than those actually charged at closing, and that other costs
are left off the good faith estimate altogether. To the extent that
discrepancies exist, the good faith estimate is unreliable as a
shopping tool."
Large "club" type discount stores are a great place to
get breakfast cereals, soda or other groceries cheap, but do you
want to get financial advice from them? While home loans are not
rocket science, they are too complicated to get your advice on loan
types and interest rates from anyone but a true professional.
The Internet or newspapers are great places to get information
about loans but do you really believe you will get the loan rate
promised when after looking at hundreds of rates, you choose the
lowest one? If so, you probably also believe the diet pills on TV
work as advertised.
Another highly advertised approach is from companies that promise
you 3, 4 or 5 different competing mortgage offers from the minimal
information they collect on you. These are just lead generation
companies that advertise to the public on radio, TV and the internet,
and sell the information the consumer gives them, to mortgage brokers
and banks. The mortgage brokers and banks PAY for these “leads”
from the lead generation company regardless if they close the loan
or not. Who do you think really ends up paying for these extra costs?
You do. Plus there is no guarantee you won’t be Bait &
Switched anyway as all 3-5 of the lenders giving you those “offers”
know you are getting “competing offers” from 3-5 others
as well. What do you think they are going to quote? They just want
to suck you in, and they’ll deal with reality later with excuses
and re-disclosures at signing, as you will.
A lot of advertised interest rates are at 10 day lock ins (or
plain lies) and impossible to get anyway as you could never close
the loan that fast. You don’t end up at close with the original
low interest rate promised at application. They make up excuses
like "The lock expired before we were ready" or "The
lender we locked with turned you down but this other lender approved
you" or even worse they didn’t lock in your loan, or
even tell you it was an option to lock in. Some tell you there is
a fee to lock in to talk you out of locking in. Some try to talk
you out of locking when you want to. If you don’t lock in
at their below market quote (Which they won’t do) then you
are at their mercy when you do lock 2-4 weeks into the loan process.
Then once your loan is approved and ready for signing, they lock
you in at a higher interest rate. Standard Bait & Switch practice.
Getting a referral from a relative, co-worker or friend of a good
mortgage loan officer they have used is the best bet. This is how
we get most of our business at Pacific Residential Mortgage, LLC. Repeat
customers and referrals from them.
Be careful not to “Step over dollars, to pick up
nickels” either.
Some mortgage loan officers harm their customers unintentionally
with their "zest" to save the last nickel in fees for
their customers. They lock your loan with a lender that is a few
hundred dollars cheaper on fees that day than every other lender
in the country. Then that lender continually delays your loan with
asking for additional conditions multiple times. Sometimes delaying
your closing and expiring your lock. What have you saved if the
loan doesn’t close? (Read an article from The
Oregonian dated 08/24/2003 about Capital Commerce). They went
out of business leaving many borrowers with locked & approved
loans that did not fund at all (people that had to pay higher rates
to get their loans and/or close 3-4 weeks later).
Another example, the loan officer chooses the absolute cheapest
appraiser on your loan. Usually the cheapest appraisers are the
slowest and do poor work that lenders don't accept or the underwriter
keeps asking for additional information from the loan officer about
the appraisal. Sometimes you end up having to get a 2nd appraisal
which costs more and causes delays. Now what have you saved? And
you didn’t even have a say in picking the appraiser, your
loan officer did.
It's hard to compare "apples to apples" in rates, costs
or service. You pick your loan officer, they pick the lender they
use. You're stuck with their choice in service. You have to trust
your loan officer to get you a good deal, while at the same time
going through a lender that will close the loan in a timely fashion
without problems. Not to mention one that will approve the loan
and not deny it 4-6 weeks into the process after rates have gone
up and you can't go anywhere else. Are you sure your loan officer
has the expertise and won't mess up your loan unintentionally, but
messed up all the same?
You need to pick your loan officer wisely the first time. Choose
an experienced loan officer from Pacific
Residential Mortgage, LLC, and know you are getting a great rate and
costs combination for your home loan.
PLEASE NOTE: These are NOT our rates
today - We can get you substantially better than the
average rates shown by being a broker and seeing almost everyone's
rates daily. We'll place your loan with the best. A "must"
read before shopping for a loan is our explanation of Rates
& Cost Shopping Basics below. These statistics are what
the media and government agencies use when you hear about "average
rates did such and such today". Averages are just a good way
to track the market and use for hypothetical loans.

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